The past couple of weeks have been congested with illness, first mine, then with tending to others in the family as they struggled with their version of my cold. I'm so generous with my colds.
As you might imagine, that didn't allow much time for sewing.
But progress has been made!
Last Saturday (March 28th) I managed to cut out the skirt but didn't get to the bodice until last night (Friday). I was very productive, such a good girl. Not only did I cut out the bodice, I also zig-zagged the edges and sewed it together. Now I have something for Hannah to try on. I have not cut out the lining or interfacing yet. That will be done after I see how what I have fits Hannah.
To make the pattern pieces I used this time around, I first used a sharpie to mark the seams in the muslin bodice. Then I took out the seams, trimmed down to the markings, getting rid of the seam allowance, creating what is called a slope.
The bodice is made of four basic pattern pieces which are cut to create seven pieces that are sewn together: one front cut on the fold, two each of side front, side back, and back. During the fitting of the muslin bodice, I tried to even out the adjustments side to side, so that the left side-front would be similar to the right side-front. I created each slope by averaging the left and right pieces after trimming away the seam allowances.
A friend of ours (H.H., this would be you) once suggested using a roll of disposable plastic table cloth when making my own patterns. This is the thin plastic you roll out for the length of your table, cut and use, taping down if you happen to be outside, then throw away when done. It's too flimsy to be reused as such. It is, however, perfect for patterns! If working with a store-bought pattern you want to alter, the plastic is thin enough to place over the original pattern and trace.
I just placed each of the four slopes on the plastic and traced, leaving at least two-inches between them. I then added a one-inch seam allowance around each and cut them out. (Advice: Don't use your good sewing shears for this. Any pair of generic household/craft scissors will do just fine. Those are my good shears in the photo.)
These are the pattern pieces I used for the current bodice. I sewed a 5/8-inch seam allowance to compensate for the lack of stretch in this material compared to the muslin. We'll soon see how well this worked.
The skirt was much easier. No separate patterns were created for either the front or back. Instead, I used and edge of a small block of soap to mark the material. Soap stays on the material better than tailor's chalk, but comes off better than pen or pencil.
The skirt front was cut on the fold, the top (waistline) measurement equaled the side-to-side measurement of the slopes around the front. It then went down on a straight diagonal to the selvage, the distance down the selvage = dress length (according to the pattern).
The back waist equaled the width of the material (56 inches) and went straight down the selvage for the skirt length. I added 2-feet to the length at the fold and curve it up the the side length to make the train.
The skirt was much easier. No separate patterns were created for either the front or back. Instead, I used and edge of a small block of soap to mark the material. Soap stays on the material better than tailor's chalk, but comes off better than pen or pencil.
The skirt front was cut on the fold, the top (waistline) measurement equaled the side-to-side measurement of the slopes around the front. It then went down on a straight diagonal to the selvage, the distance down the selvage = dress length (according to the pattern).
The back waist equaled the width of the material (56 inches) and went straight down the selvage for the skirt length. I added 2-feet to the length at the fold and curve it up the the side length to make the train.
Might I add that sewing taffeta is a pain when you have a cramped sewing area. The material doesn't like to fold back on itself as easily as cotton does. Of course, this stiffness is what makes it perfect for a wedding dress. Looks like it's time to do some more cleaning.
~ Hannah's Mom
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